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My visit to the Skirrid Mountain Inn

I recently became fascinated by the haunted history of the Skirrid Mountain Inn, which lies in the small Monmouthshire village of Llanfihangel Crucorney, in south-east Wales. When I realised a recent day trip would take me very close to the inn, I couldn't resist a detour to the location.

We arrived at sundown, finding  the sleepy, rural village bathed in a pinkish-purple glow.

We drove through an archway into the pub's car park, and settled in the beer garden, as I had my dog with me. Within a minute or so of sitting, I got an overwhelming sense of misery and despair.

I reasoned with myself - I know a lot about the inn's bloody past, and that knowledge was probably clouding what I was sensing. But the feelings of utter despair simply grew more intense, to the point of being oppressive. I felt doomed, and as if I would never leave the place. Intrigued, I left the dog outside with my companion, and decided to explore the interior of the inn.

As I approached the low doorway, obscured in the above picture by a folded parasol, I got the distinct impression that what is now the rear of the inn, was in fact, its original facade. As I entered the doorway, I felt some of the gloom and oppression lifting from me. Within moments, I got my first glimpse of the spot where almost 200 convicts were executed.

After taking the above shot, I paid a visit to the bathroom. This is when things got a little stranger. It suddenly felt icy cold and I had a sense of someone repeating over and over to me, 'I didn't do it, I didn't do it'. Was this my imagination playing tricks? I had a further impression that the person was a young boy, maybe no more than 14 years old. Where the heck was this all coming from? As soon as I left the bathroom, it stopped, although the chill remained.

I returned to the corridor where the hangman's noose was located. The rope isn't the original, but it's suspended from the original beam, which bears impressions from the original rope.

I suspect the original rope may have been somewhat shorter than this one, because the noose is only about a a metre and a half from the floor - unless people were considerably shorter in the days of Hanging Judge Jeffreys than they are today.

Here's a closer look at the original hangman's beam - I wish I could have got a better shot.

I decided to climb part of the way up a flight of stairs to my left, to get a closer look at the hanging rope and beam. I spotted an ancient, wooden door at the top of the stairs, and decided to investigate.

As I drew closer, the temperature began to change, at a spot roughly half way up the stairs. I stood sideways on the stairs, and realised that my left side, facing upwards towards the door, was rapidly warming up. My right side, facing the rope and the bathroom, was still very cold.

I got a sudden sense of benevolence and welcoming, coming from the direction of the upper floor. I also got a sense of fussiness, like someone was bustling around, doing their best to welcome me and put me at my ease. At this point, I decided to leave, because I was a little spooked. This welcoming sense was definitely coming from behind that door. Why was I spooked? Well, this is what the sign on the door said.

The sign may be a recent addition, but it commemorates the fact that condemned prisoners were held in this room, a makeshift cell, prior to being led to the gallows. Was I being welcomed by a benevolent spirit, or  being enticed by the hangman said to stalk the upper floors? Or did my imagination simply go into hyperdrive?

I decided to step outside, and take my dog for a walk around the front of the inn, before we left for the long drive home.

I nearly jumped out of my skin when I saw this character standing at the inn's front entrance, next to the ancient front door.

Fortunately, it was just the publican's idea of a joke. Phew. Before I left, I decided to grab a shot of the mountain which gave the Skirrid Mountain Inn its name. I found the Skirrid Mountain, bathed in the last rays of the setting sun, just as eerie as the inn itself.

Despite sensing a number of anomalies at the location, if I'm honest, I cannot be sure if, or how much, my previous knowledge of the Skirrid Mountain Inn's haunted history, coloured my experiences. That said, my own experiences don't seem to correspond with reports I've read made by other visitors to the inn, so maybe there was something more than an overactive imagination at play. I will definitely return to the Skirrid at some point, to try to get a better feel of the place.

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I hope to visit the Skirrid Mountain Inn soon. I'll be updating my article about the pub's ghosts with any new information I uncover. I'll also add some personal impressions to the article, especially if I detect anything anomalous.

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I'm on the radio today

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Ghosts of the Skirrid Mountain Inn

Introduction

Haunted hostelries are a recurring theme in paranormal lore, their eerie environments often inspiring the works of famous novelists. Cornwall's famous Jamaica Inn inspired the Daphne du Maurier novel of the same name, whilst across the Atlantic, the Stanley Hotel, located in the Rocky Mountains, served as inspiration for Stephen King's 'The Shining'. The UK seems especially blessed, or cursed, depending on how you look at it, with tales of haunted hostelries, and one of the most notorious of these can be found close to the Welsh-English border, in south east Wales.

History

The ancient Skirrid Mountain Inn lies at the foot of the Skirrid Mountain, in the small village of Llanfihangel Crucorney, just off the main road between Abergavenny and Hereford. The Skirrid is believed to be Wales's oldest pub, and is amongst some of the oldest in the UK. It is also reputed to be one of the UK's most haunted locations. According to historical records, the inn has been providing its patrons with hospitality, and no doubt, a few heart-stopping moments, since at least 1104 - the era of the Norman conquest - and possibly, even earlier.

Image: Andy Dolman via Creative Commons Licence

The inn has a fascinating history, and is said to have played host to many historical figures. In the early 1400's, Owain Glyndwr, Wales's most famous opponent of English rule, is believed to have spurred on his rebels at the inn's courtyard, and indeed, numerous English kings are also reputed to have stayed at the inn - but presumably not at the same time.

Much of the inn's ancient construction remains. The building's exposed oak beams are said to have been fashioned from ancient ships' timbers, and many of its wooden window frames are considered to be of original construction, along with one of the inn's wooden doors. The Skirrid's dining room houses some authentic sixteenth century wooden panelling.

Image: Philip Halling via Creative Commons licence

The Skirrid Mountain Inn has a fascinating, though very bloody history. Between the twelfth and seventeenth centuries, it served as a court room. During this era of British history, harsh sentences, including the death penalty, were meted out to murderers and petty criminals alike. More than 180 individuals are believed to have been executed by hanging at the Skirrid Mountain Inn, during its days as a courtroom. The inn's first floor is believed to have housed the courtroom, and a holding cell for prisoners was located half way up the stairs. The former cell is now a store room.

Image: Andy Dolman via Creative Commons Licence

In 1685, during an exceptionally bloody period in the inn's history, 180 insurgents from the Monmouth Rebellion were hanged at the Skirrid. The hangings were ordered by the notorious George Jeffreys, 1st Baron Jeffreys of Wem, more popularly known as 'Hanging' Judge Jeffreys.

George Jeffreys, 1st Baron Jeffreys of Wem - William Wolfgang Claret

The Catholic King James II sent the judge to Wales to mete out harsh punishment to supporters of the Duke of Monmouth's failed Protestant rebellion. The rebels were executed by hanging from a beam beneath the Skirrid's staircase. The rope marks are said to be preserved in the wood of the beam.

Image: Philip Halling via Creative Commons licence

Many believe that the Skirrid's bloody history has left the inn with a whole host of non-paying guests, none of which show any signs of wanting to leave.

The Ghosts

Although there is no documentary evidence that he ever sat in person at the Skirrid's courtroom, Hanging Judge Jeffreys is rumoured to stalk the upper floors of the Skirrid Mountain Inn, no doubt looking for felons to condemn to death. One such felon, a sheep rustler named John Crowther, has reportedly put in many appearances throughout the inn. The malevolent presence of Judge Jeffreys' hangman has also been reported, along with those of several other hanged felons.

Not all the Skirrid's reported spirits are criminal or malevolent in nature. They include a local clergyman, Father Henry Vaughn, whose presence has been reported as friendly and harmless. Fanny Price, who worked at the inn during the 18th century, is said to be very active throughout the Skirrid. It is believed Fanny died of consumption in 1873, aged just 35. She is reportedly most active in Room 3. Other ghostly occurrences include sightings of a spirit dubbed the White Lady, the sound of soldiers in the courtyard, the rustling of an unseen lady's dress, a powerful scent of perfume, and glasses flying off the bar unaided by human hands. An estimated ten to fifteen glasses are broken in this way every week. In fact, glasses began to fly around the bar as a former landlady, Heather Grant, negotiated a potential sale of the inn.

Visitors, often totally unaware of the inn's haunted history, have reported a variety of disturbing phenomena. On more than one occasion, guests have complained of feeling as if they were being strangled, shortly before the appearance of welts on their necks, resembling rope burns. Other guests have become overwhelmed with dizziness, nausea or fear on the stairs, or complained of a palpable but invisible presence passing them at the same spot.

In recent times, eight late night drinkers at the bar reportedly witnessed a bizarre phenomenon, flying money. Some paper notes, weighted down by coins, levitated and drifted around the whole bar. The notes allegedly hovered briefly in mid-air, before crashing to the floor.

The inn also experiences peculiar knocking sounds, with doors either slamming shut spontaneously, or shaking violently before flying open unaided. Unexplained footsteps have been heard all over the Skirrid, and numerous cold spots felt, for which no logical cause has been found.

Conclusion

Are there rational, conventional explanations for the strange events experienced at the Skirrid Mountain Inn? Has the hostelry's bloody history somehow permanently imprinted itself on the building, to be spontaneously replayed over the years, by means and for reasons unknown? Sadly, these are questions none of us can answer with any certainty. All that can be said for sure, is that no-one has suffered serious or permanent injury at the ghostly hands of the spirits said to reside at the Skirrid. In fact, its ghostly residents seem to be one of the inn's biggest attractions.

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Apologies

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